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by
Ned Ingberman
Table
Of Contents
1. The Ideal Wood Filler For Drum Restoration
2. How To Repair Cracks In Ludwig Vistalite
Drums
3. Removing Tension Rod Rust
4. Prevent Finish Fade
5. Metal Polish
6. Cleaning and Polishing Vistalite Drums
7. Fixing Bent Rims
8. Professional Drum Restoration Consultation
Service
THE
IDEAL WOOD FILLER FOR DRUM RESTORATION
The best wood filler we have found for drum shell repair is “Plastic
Wood”, a product made by DAP. With its high cellulose fiber content
this wood filler is designed to stay tight. It doesn’t shrink or
become brittle – so it won’t crack or loose its bond when the shell
flexes or vibrates during tuning or playing, or when the shell expands
and contracts with changing weather. When used for bearing edge
repair, Plastic Wood even stands up to the intense friction and
pressure produced by the drum head. The makers of this product say
it “Looks and acts like real wood” and they mean it. Plastic Wood
can be sanded, cut, drilled, planed, varnished, painted or lacquered.
This high performance wood filler comes in a quick-drying solvent
formula, and a slower drying non-toxic latex formula. We recommend
the non-toxic formula. Unlike the solvent based formula, it’s non-flammable,
has no harmful vapor and does not require protective dust mask when
being sanded. Both formulas come in assorted colors including maple
and mahogany.
Plastic Wood can be found in most hardware stores. For information
on where to purchase Plastic Wood in your area call DAP at 888-327-8477.
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HOW
TO REPAIR CRACKS IN LUDWIG VISTALITE DRUMS
Plastics distributor and manufacturer, GE Polymershapes, Inc., offers
a line of special glues for repairing cracks and breaks in acrylic
plastic. Formerly known as “Cadillac Plastics” during the 70’s-80’s,
this company produced the acrylic material for the Ludwig Drum Company’s
“Vistalite” drums.
The glue, made by “Weldon”, comes in 3 different viscosities:
1) “Weldon 3” – has a watery consistency and penetrates into hairline
cracks. It molecularly bonds (melts) plastic together and permanently
seals the crack.
2) “Weldon 5” – has a consistency of syrup and is used for joining
together
breaks.
3) “Weldon 10” – is thicker than #5, has a consistency of honey
and is used
also for joining together breaks.
Both Weldon 3 and 5 are clear and colorless; Weldon 10 has an opaque
cast and therefore best when used where it would be least conspicuous
– i.e. – on darker colored Vistalites, or for re-joining unglued
seams. Before using these products, be sure to read the directions
and precautions concerning proper ventilation, etc.
GE Polymershapes can be reached at: phone – (800)274-1000; address
– 1218 Central Ave., Minneapolis, MN 55413; website – http://www.gepolymershapes.com
Lastly, here’s a tip on preventing cracks. If you remove lug casings
or mounts from your Vistalite drums, be very careful when re-mounting
them. Tighten the screws and bolts just enough to be slightly snug,
but not any more. Over tightening can cause hairline cracks in the
shell around the perimeter of the mounting holes.
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REMOVING TENSION ROD RUST
You can quickly and effectively remove rust on tension rod threads
using grade “0000” superfine steel wool, a Drum Accessory Bit Key
and a power drill. A dust mask is also recommended to avoid the
inhalation of superfine rust particles.
First, mount the Drum Accessory Bit Key (made by Evans) into your
power drill, then set the drill on “reverse” mode. (Note: A home-made
version of the bit can be made by cutting off the stem section of
a drum key. Place the cut where the stem section connects to the
wing section.)
Next, nestle the shaft of the rusty tension rod into a thick wad
of the steel wool. Squeeze the wool tightly in your hand. Then place
the key on the head of the tension rod and press the trigger.
The tension rod will then start to “unscrew” from the steel wool.
When it is almost out of the wool completely, release the trigger
and switch the drill’s direction mode to “forward”. Then “drill”
the rod back into the wool. Repeat both the forward and reverse
steps until you see all of the rust gone. Be sure to squeeze the
steel wool as tightly as you can while you’re “drilling”.
For better results, especially on heavy rust, use a vice to squeeze
the steel wool instead of your hand. It will also be easier on your
hand. When using the vice, be sure to sandwich the steel wool between
two thin strips of wood or dense cardboard as a protective bushing
to prevent any possible stripping of the tension rod threads due
to contact with the jaws of the vice. Use plenty of steel wool,
as it compresses down when the vice is tightened.
Each time you “drill” the rod in and out, tighten the vice slightly
to compensate for the loss of friction caused by the wearing down
of the steel wool. The vice should be tight enough so that the drilling
resistance or “feel” of the tension rod is similar to that of a
wood screw going into soft wood.
If even the vice and steel wool do not get rid of the rust, remove
the steel wool (and protective strips of wood or cardboard). In
its place, insert two strips of masonite and follow the same procedure
as you did in using the steel wool. The direct contact of the tension
rod against the masonite will in some cases do the job when steel
wool won’t.
If that fails you might consider re-plating the rod if the rust
is too unsightly or using a motor-driven wire wheel. This will strip
off the chrome or nickel plating on the tension rod and is recommended
only in cases where the plating has deteriorated to such a degree
that its removal would actually improve the appearance of the tension
rod.
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PREVENT
FINISH FADE
Continued exposure to direct sunlight will, over time, discolor
the mylar wrap on your drums. If you leave your drum kit set up
in your home, be sure that the drums are far enough from a window
so that direct rays of the sun can not reach them.
METAL
POLISH
“Simichrome” is a very special soft paste polish made in Germany.
This product not only polishes metal to a brilliant luster, but
also leaves a protective film. It can be used on nickel, chrome,
brass, copper, aluminum, steel, silver… virtually any metal. Although
Simichrome is safe enough to polish even Plexiglas without scratching,
we don’t recommend it for use on lacquer finished metal drums –
such as vintage Ludwig “Black Beauties” or Leedy “Black Elites”.
Simichrome is available in 1¾ oz. tube for $7.35 or in an 8.8 oz.
size for $22.15. It’s expensive, but a little goes a long way. To
find a store closest to you that sells Simichrome, call Competition
Chemicals at (641)648-5121.
CLEANING
AND POLISHING VISTALITE DRUMS
Like a window, Ludwig’s Vistalite drum with its transparent acrylic
shell gives high visibility to accumulated dirt and film not only
on its exterior surface, but on its interior as well. In addition,
unlike most vintage drums wrapped in pearl and sparkle patterns,
the Vistalite with its non-patterned finish provides no camouflage
for dirt. That’s why Vistalites require more frequent cleaning and
polishing than most other drums. Using the right cleaning methods
and products is essential, otherwise a gummy residue, streaky film
or static charge could result – or even worse, scratches and hazing.
“Windex”, a well-known household glass cleaner is a popular item
with some collectors. But because Windex does not lubricate as it
cleans, dust and dirt trapped between the cloth and surface can
leave super-fine scratches in the acrylic. Over time, this can develop
into a light grade haze, diminishing the optic clarity of the acrylic.
The best products we have found for cleaning and polishing Vistalite
drums and mylar wrapped drums are made by Meguiar’s Mirror Glaze.
Their excellent line of products are even approved by the United
States military for use in military applications.
“Meguiar’s Clear Plastic Detailer No. 18” is a quick spray-on and
wipe-off cleaner/polisher recommended for regular maintenance. It
leaves Vistalites sparkling clear and with an anti-static finish.
The Detailer is also great for use on eyeglasses and all types of
other clear plastics.
“Meguiar’s Clear Plastic Cleaner No. 17” removes not only dirt and
film, but light hazing and light scratches as well. Here are some
tips for using the cleaner: (1) work it into the finish with a terry
cloth and wipe off the residue, (2) apply it by hand and not with
a rotary buffer, (3) always use it when the acrylic is cool and
in the shade, (4) follow with “Meguiar’s Clear Plastic Polish No.
10”.
“Meguiar’s Plastic Polish No. 10” refines the finish and restores
optical clarity. It also leaves a static free coating that repels
dust. When applying the polish, follow the same usage tips 1, 2
and 3 as the cleaner.
According to Meguiar’s, the selection of toweling is almost as important
as the selection of cleaners and polishes. They explained, “It is
impossible to achieve perfect clarity when using the wrong type
of toweling. The best toweling is 100% cotton deep pile terry cloth.
Synthetic fibers blended into cotton toweling create a slower wipe
off because they will not absorb, scratch the surface because they
will not soften, and are more prone to create static. Deep pile
100% cotton terry cloth reduces effort and labor time by wiping
off excess product faster and protects the surface from being scratched
when dust and particles are trapped between the cloth and the surface.”
To remove abrasions that won’t come out with the hand applied Meguiar’s
18, 17 and 10, the company offers an assortment of machine-applied
products including more aggressive scratch-removal compounds and
“Unigrit Finishing Papers” for sanding. I asked Mike Pennington,
Meguiar’s product specialist, if any of the machine-applied products
could be used by hand with some measure of success. He confirmed
that “Meguiar’s Machine Glaze No. 3”, their light abrasion remover,
could be used.
For information on a Meguiar’s dealer nearest to you and for technical
assistance on using their products call Meguiar’s toll free at (800)
347-5700.
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PROFESSIONAL
DRUM RESTORATION CONSULTATION SERVICE
Do
you need help with your next restoration project?
To read more click here
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